“For about 85 percent of it, if one of us fell, we could have been seriously injured or killed. There were dozens of spots where I could have fallen over 100 feet, and plenty of ledges to strike. Our method was dangerous, but we could have dialed it back at any point. We only climbed as fast as we could safely justify."
THE FASTEST WOMEN ON THE PLANET!
I HAVE TO ADMIT, I seriously questioned whether anyone could beat Alex Honnold and Hans Florine's long standing record for the fastest time up the Nose of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley, California. But Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds did just that, scaling the iconic 3,000' route in 2:19:44, shaving nearly four minutes off the previous record. What's fascinating is the record has been broken at least 18 times by many of the world's greatest big wall climbers, including the German Huber brothers, and the late Ueli Steck, a.k.a. The Swiss Machine, who were both injured and forced to retreat on separate occassions after taking horrific falls while attempting to break the record. And with Quinn Brett's most recent life altering injury (potentially paralized from the waist down), resulting from a 100' fall while attempting to break the woman's record, the dangers couldn't be more real. Which is why I'm calling this The World's Most Dangerous Race. (Read More)
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THE WORLD''S FASTEST BIG WALL CLIMBERS
TRAD / BIG WALL
SPORT / PSICOBLOC
First Female Ascent of China Doll
Heather Weidner, just captured the first female ascent of China Doll, becoming the fourth women to climb a 5.14 trad route. Watch this incredible story by Louder Than Eleven, as Heather battles her demons.
Bouldering in Joe's Valley
Daniel Woods & Paul Robinson
Daniel Wood & Paul Robinson, take us a journey to one of America's best bouldering areas known as Joe's Valley. Despite the frigid temperatures, they were able to send some extraordinarilly hard lines.
First Woman to climb 9b/5.15b
Austrian, Angela Eiter, age 31,
becomes the first woman to climb a 9b/5.15b by successfully sending La Planta de Shiva in Villaneuva del Rosario in Spain.
Sends Psuchopad 8b
Oriane Bertone, 12 years old, just sent an 8b, sending shockwaves around the globe.
sends The Finish Line V16
Nalle Hukkataival describes The Finnish Line (V16) as a Gem rarer than diamonds."
Nalle’s latest testpiece could be a contender for Rocklands’ (South Africa) hardest boulder problem
ON EVERYTHING IS EVERYTHING
CHRIS SHARMA ON "EVERYTHING IS KARATE" 5.14 C/D
sends ZODIAC 5.13D
BABSI AND JACOPO
Babsi and Jacopo went to battle Zodiac 5.13d, one of El Cap's most formidable free routes. Some of the hardest climbing in the valley crammed into 16 pitches. It has only seen 2 previous ascents till Babsi and Jacopo.
The Art of Solo
Matt Bush free solos Paarl Mountain, one of the world's largest domes in South Africa. "I've soloed overhanging routes at 8a+/5.13d repeatedly, but this route feels much harder. The movement style is delicate, on balance and very technical."
repeats POSITION OF POWER V12
Daniel Woods repeat Position of Power V12 in Rocky Mountain National Park. This boulder sits above Bear Lake Road and can easily be seen driving up.
Destroys Magic Wood's Hardest Problems
Murai, headed to Magic Wood on a mission, with a tick list of some of the hardest problems in the forest. He climbed quickly sending most of the 8b/c after only a couple of tries.
Sends FIGHT CLUB 5.15b
Alex Megos completes historic first ascent of Fight Club 5.15b, at Raven's Crag in Alberta, near Banff National Park, the first and hardest 5.15 sport climb in Canada.
2017 IFSC CLIMBING WORLDCUP BRIACON FINAL HIGHLIGHTS
Thousands gathered in Briacon, France for the third IFSC World Cup. Women Lead Result: 1st Janja Garnbret 2nd Anak Verhoeven . 3rd Jain Kim . Mens Lead Result: 1st Romain Desgranges
2nd Sean McColl
3rd Stefano Ghisolfi
PAMALA SHANTI PACK
Sends AM I EVIL? 5.13-
La Sportiva ambassador Pamela Shanti Pack as she makes the first ascent of her newest off-width crack climb in the Moab desert called "Am I Evil?", a four-pitch combination of steeply overhanging technical test-piece and blue-collar burl.
Climbs THE PURSUIT OF HAPPINESS 8b
"The Pursuit of Happiness, my first 8b boulder! I should say possibly because some agree with the original 8b, some think 8a+. Who knows, it was hard for me but the pursuit of happiness in climbing is not just about the numbers and I am certainly very happy."
Sends COSMIC TRICYCLE V10/7c+
SIERRA BLAIR COYLE
Sierra Blair Coyle sends the Puzzle Box roof at The Draw. This is a video of her working out the send for 'Cosmic Tricycle'.
OLIANA, SPAIN 2017 HIGHLIGHTS
"It’s incredible to come back to Oliana year after year and see how this cliff has become an international epicenter for high end sport climbing. It’s given me the opportunity to enjoy many special moments with good friends, trying hard routes together and having fun!"
Killed in Mountaineering Accident!
Ueli Steck, the "Swiss Machine", died in a mountaineering accident while acclimatising for an attempt to climb Everest and Mount Nuptse, back to back, without oxygen. "Of course I want to climb Everest and Lhotse, but that's a very high goal. Failure for me would be to die and not come home.”
FIRST WOMAN TO CLIMB 5.15
Hayes, 19, made history by climbing La Rambla in Siurana, Spain, becoming the first woman to send 5.15a "I conscientiously work on being positive in life. When I am positive, I’m more productive and open-minded, and that carries over into climbing.”