“For about 85 percent of it, if one of us fell, we could have been seriously injured or killed. There were dozens of spots where I could have fallen over 100 feet, and plenty of ledges to strike. Our method was dangerous, but we could have dialed it back at any point. We only climbed as fast as we could safely justify."
PART TWO
Brad Gobright
WORLD'S
MOST
DANGEROUS
RACE
THE FASTEST WOMEN ON THE PLANET!
I HAVE TO ADMIT, I seriously questioned whether anyone could beat Alex Honnold and Hans Florine's long standing record for the fastest time up the Nose of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley, California. But Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds did just that, scaling the iconic 3,000' route in 2:19:44, shaving nearly four minutes off the previous record. What's fascinating is the record has been broken at least 18 times by many of the world's greatest big wall climbers, including the German Huber brothers, and the late Ueli Steck, a.k.a. The Swiss Machine, who were both injured and forced to retreat on separate occassions after taking horrific falls while attempting to break the record. And with Quinn Brett's most recent life altering injury (potentially paralized from the waist down), resulting from a 100' fall while attempting to break the woman's record, the dangers couldn't be more real. Which is why I'm calling this The World's Most Dangerous Race. (Read More)
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BRAD GOBRIGHT
JIM REYNOLDS
THE WORLD''S FASTEST BIG WALL CLIMBERS
BREAKING NEWS:
TRAD / BIG WALL
China Doll
Heather Weidner captures the first female ascent of China Doll, becoming the fourth women to climb a 5.14 trad route. Watch Heather battle her demons.
Babsi and Jacopo send Zodiac 5.13d
Babsi and Jacopo went to battle Zodiac 5.13d, one of El Cap's most formidable free routes. Some of the hardest climbing in the valley crammed into 16 pitches.
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SPORT / PSICOBLOC
Angela Eiter first woman to climb 9b/5.15b
Austrian, Angela Eiter, age 31, becomes the first woman to climb a 9b/5.15b by successfully sending La Planta de Shiva in Villaneuva del Rosario in Spain.
AdamOndra sends World's Hardest
ADAM ONDRA, the 24-year-old climbing phenom from the Czech Republic, has struck again, sending the world's first 9c/5.14d
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BOULDERING
Nalle Hukkataival sends Finnish Line (V16)
Nalle Hukkataival describes The Finnish Line (V16) as a Gem rarer than diamonds." Nalle’s latest testpiece could be a contender for Rocklands’ (South Africa) hardest boulder problem
Daniel Wood & Paul Robinson in Joe's Valley
Daniel Wood & Paul Robinson, take us a journey to one of America's best bouldering areas known as Joe's Valley. Despite the frigid temperatures, they were able to send some extraordinarilly hard lines.
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Heather Weidner
First Female Ascent of China Doll
Heather Weidner, just captured the first female ascent of China Doll, becoming the fourth women to climb a 5.14 trad route. Watch this incredible story by Louder Than Eleven, as Heather battles her demons.
Bouldering in Joe's Valley
Daniel Woods & Paul Robinson
Daniel Wood & Paul Robinson, take us a journey to one of America's best bouldering areas known as Joe's Valley. Despite the frigid temperatures, they were able to send some extraordinarilly hard lines.
First Woman to climb 9b/5.15b
Angela Eiter
Austrian, Angela Eiter, age 31,
becomes the first woman to climb a 9b/5.15b by successfully sending La Planta de Shiva in Villaneuva del Rosario in Spain.
Oriane Bertone
Sends Psuchopad 8b
Oriane Bertone, 12 years old, just sent an 8b, sending shockwaves around the globe.
sends The Finish Line V16
Nalle Hukkataival
Nalle Hukkataival describes The Finnish Line (V16) as a Gem rarer than diamonds."
Nalle’s latest testpiece could be a contender for Rocklands’ (South Africa) hardest boulder problem
ON EVERYTHING IS EVERYTHING
Chris Sharma
CHRIS SHARMA ON "EVERYTHING IS KARATE" 5.14 C/D
sends ZODIAC 5.13D
BABSI AND JACOPO
Babsi and Jacopo went to battle Zodiac 5.13d, one of El Cap's most formidable free routes. Some of the hardest climbing in the valley crammed into 16 pitches. It has only seen 2 previous ascents till Babsi and Jacopo.
MATT BUSH
The Art of Solo
Matt Bush free solos Paarl Mountain, one of the world's largest domes in South Africa. "I've soloed overhanging routes at 8a+/5.13d repeatedly, but this route feels much harder. The movement style is delicate, on balance and very technical."
DANIEL WOODS
repeats POSITION OF POWER V12
Daniel Woods repeat Position of Power V12 in Rocky Mountain National Park. This boulder sits above Bear Lake Road and can easily be seen driving up.
Destroys Magic Wood's Hardest Problems
RYUICHI MURAI
Murai, headed to Magic Wood on a mission, with a tick list of some of the hardest problems in the forest. He climbed quickly sending most of the 8b/c after only a couple of tries.
Sends FIGHT CLUB 5.15b
ALEX MEGOS
Alex Megos completes historic first ascent of Fight Club 5.15b, at Raven's Crag in Alberta, near Banff National Park, the first and hardest 5.15 sport climb in Canada.
2017 IFSC CLIMBING WORLDCUP BRIACON FINAL HIGHLIGHTS
Thousands gathered in Briacon, France for the third IFSC World Cup. Women Lead Result: 1st Janja Garnbret 2nd Anak Verhoeven . 3rd Jain Kim . Mens Lead Result: 1st Romain Desgranges
2nd Sean McColl
3rd Stefano Ghisolfi
MINA WUJASTYK
Climbs THE PURSUIT OF HAPPINESS 8b
"The Pursuit of Happiness, my first 8b boulder! I should say possibly because some agree with the original 8b, some think 8a+. Who knows, it was hard for me but the pursuit of happiness in climbing is not just about the numbers and I am certainly very happy."
Sends COSMIC TRICYCLE V10/7c+
SIERRA BLAIR COYLE
Sierra Blair Coyle sends the Puzzle Box roof at The Draw. This is a video of her working out the send for 'Cosmic Tricycle'.
PAMALA SHANTI PACK
Sends AM I EVIL? 5.13-
La Sportiva ambassador Pamela Shanti Pack as she makes the first ascent of her newest off-width crack climb in the Moab desert called "Am I Evil?", a four-pitch combination of steeply overhanging technical test-piece and blue-collar burl.
OLIANA, SPAIN 2017 HIGHLIGHTS
CHRIS SHARMA
"It’s incredible to come back to Oliana year after year and see how this cliff has become an international epicenter for high end sport climbing. It’s given me the opportunity to enjoy many special moments with good friends, trying hard routes together and having fun!"
UELI STECK
Killed in Mountaineering Accident!
Ueli Steck, the "Swiss Machine", died in a mountaineering accident while acclimatising for an attempt to climb Everest and Mount Nuptse, back to back, without oxygen. "Of course I want to climb Everest and Lhotse, but that's a very high goal. Failure for me would be to die and not come home.”
FIRST WOMAN TO CLIMB 5.15
MARGO HAYES
Hayes, 19, made history by climbing La Rambla in Siurana, Spain, becoming the first woman to send 5.15a "I conscientiously work on being positive in life. When I am positive, I’m more productive and open-minded, and that carries over into climbing.”
Sends THE DAWN WALL 5.14d
Sends PACHAMAMA 5.15a/b
ADAM ONDRA
JONATHAN SIEGRIST
"I did the route within a week of my return to Spain. It felt surreal to sit at the anchors, to realize something that for weeks and weeks I was obsessed and overwhelmed with desire to have. It was biggest, most powerful battle of my climbing life - without question."
World Champion, Adam Ondra, captures the second free ascent of Yosemite’s hardest route, the Dawn Wall—in record time. “In the end it was just as hard as I expected, but it took more time than I expected, because I was a total beginner to this style of climbing in Yosemite. “There’s no doubt this is the hardest big-wall rock climb in the world.”
SENDS BONE TOMAHAWK 5.14d/15a
JOE KINDER
“I guess I don’t really want to boast too much publicly about them, as I really don’t need any pressure or expectations from anybody, including myself. This is the year for me to go and enjoy climbing and try to excel for me and nobody but me. ”
JERNEJ KRUDER
Sends ES PONTAS 5.15a/b
After 39 attempts, Jernej Kruder repeated Chris Sharma route saying: "This thing is so specific. For sure it's about 9th grade, but there are so many different factors. Like the dyno. If there are 200 people in the world climbing 9a, maybe just 10 percent of them can do it. Then there is the fear factor. The mind battle of trying it all over again without knowing if you're able to do all the moves."
Hoping to push her sport climbing limits in Slovenia, Katie spends 6 weeks of training inside. However, a bouldering accident days before her departure leaves her with a new set of priorities. "Expectations set you up for failure. If you do not achieve the one thing you desire, life can feel like a disaster, and it means you miss a larger piece of the puzzle; the greatness of the unexpected."
Sends BIRD'S PERSPECTIVE 5.14a/b
KATIE LAMBERT
Nina Williams makes the first female ascent of Ambrosia, a 50 ft V11 boulder on the Grandpa Peabody Boulder in the Buttermilks, California. Ambrosia completes the trifecta for Williams. In March 2105, she sent the 50 ft Footprints (V9) on the north face and in February 2016, she climbed the 55 ft Evilution Direct (V11) NNNinaNNi
NINA WILLIAMS
Sends AMBROSIA V11
CHRIS SHARMA
Mont-Rebei Episodes
Chris Sharma takes us on an adventure like nothing you've ever seen, with towering cliffs in a canyon filled with prestine clear water. According to Sharma, this could be the ultimate sport climbing area in the world. Filmed & produced by Red Bull & Prana.
ALEX HONNOLD
Free Solos The Complete Scream!
While visiting Northern Ireland, Alex Honnold free soloed The Complete Scream (E8 6b), a 200' route at Fair Head. UKC's developer Martin McKenna, had this to say..."Probably the most impressive performance I reckon I'll ever witness!"
captures FFA of Evilution Direct - V11
NINA WILLIAMS
Catalan Witness the Fitness V15
CHRIS SHARMA
WISHING to test her skills, Nina Williams set off for Bishop, California, to become the first woman to scale one of the most prestigious test pieces in the world. After numerous attempts, Nina not only sent Evilution - V11, which was originally established by Jason Kehl, she did the direct version, which was first established by Tony Lamiche.
"I had a great start to the new year by sending the "Catalan Witness the Fitness" at Cova de Ocell the other day. I've been trying this line on and off for quite some time so it felt good to see it through finally. It's been great process getting back into the bouldering groove!"
Chris Sharma
TONY HAWK Skates Downward Spiral Loop!
Tony Hawk made history by becoming the first person to skateboard a downward spiral.
'So this is all my crazy idea. Basically this ramp is a vertical spiral, a sideways loop. As far as I know no one's done anything like this'
Tony Hawk
KELLY SLATER launches Wave Company
NINE YEARS into the making, Kelly Slater Wave Company constructed the longest, open-barrel man made wave in the world!
"I’m still a little in disbelief, and trying to process how much fun this wave is, but it certainly feels like this is going to change a lot of perceptions about human-made waves."
Kelly Slater
JEB CORLISS Near-Death Experience
"My life is about taking things and seeing how far we can go. And when we do that, you really don't know where that line is until you cross it. Life is just a bunch of experiences you have until you die!"
Jeb Corliss
a.k.a. The Birdman
Wingsuit Coordinator for Point Break Remake
DANNY MACASKILL newest film 'Cascadia!'
Scottish cyclist takes his skills to entirely new level.
“I have to be 100% clear that I’m going to do the trick I’m going to do. I never think that I’m going to crash, otherwise I wouldn’t ride the bike the way I do..”
Danny MacAskill
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