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Born: Seattle, Washington

Residence: Boulder, Colorado

Climbing since: 1992

Profession: Climbing Coach

Began Coaching: 1994

Achievments: Established Magic Mushroom (5.14a) and Muir Wall (5.13c) on El Cap.  Free climbed Golden Gate & Salathe' Wall (5.13b/c) and Tower of Power (5.14c) in Jail House, CA

Athletes Trained: Daniel Woods, Emily Harrington, Alex Puccio

Justen has been climbing since 1992.  From 2004 onward, he has left his mark on elite climbing objectives across the country. In 2008, he established the “hardest free big wall” in the world, Magic Mushroom (5.14a VI) on El Cap in Yosemite. This 28-pitch epic project took him and partner Tommy Caldwell 5 long days on the wall to complete. Justen also established his dream climb, The Pre-Muir (5.13d), on El Cap, in 2007.


"The climbers who are able to visualize how holds are going to feel while pumped, and who are better mentally prepared to deal with that, are the ones who send routes faster."

Also Available on APPLE PODCAST

"We naturally dwell on the negative, but we don't spend enough time reflecting on the positive - what it is about you that allows you to be a badass?"


Justen Sjong has coached a who's who of American Climbing legends including Alex Honnold, Emily Harrington, and Daniel Woods. In this extended interview, Justen lays out his framework for climbing performance.

"What I try to identify is not weakness, but strengths.

What makes you awesome?  What makes you confident?"

Coach’s most popular option. This program includes a full customized training plan, video analysis, and skype consultation. Coach Sjong will take your individual goal, schedule and personality to craft a plan that makes sense for you. Whether you’re getting ready for a big wall mission or just looking to improve your weekend climbing, Coach Sjong will craft an easy to follow training program that gets the results you care about.

Private sessions with Climbing Coach Justen Sjong are the best way to improve very specific climbing skills and test them through fitness routines. Coach Sjong will complete a full evaluation to determine the ideal places to make positive changes in your climbing and gear each session to your precise needs. He will provide homework after each session and he expects you to spend time working on those tasks.

Are you a coach or gym manager looking for the most efficient way to offer value to your climbers? Training Camps are perfect for raising the intensity level. When athletes train in a group, they can train harder than alone because the “suffer factor” is easier to embrace–maybe even fun. In addition, groups receive short, inspirational lectures. These talks can last from 15 to 30 minutes and we explore climbing concepts in more detail. Coach Sjong offers a variety of training camp styles to suit whats best for your participants.

Often coach has the Custom Programs 'Sold Out' and this is the best option to get feedback on your climbing.  The athlete will provide simple video of their choice.  Coach can see so many details in a simple 45 second boulder problem.  You will be provided a written list of Good & Bad feedback broken down to the second. 

Contact Justen: 



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