Photo byJohn Evans
"Focus on exactly where you are at. Have an idea where you want to get. Then be extremely patient about it."
Pamela is a professional rock climber and surveyor with a degree from Yale University, who also holds a Professional Certification in GIS and Remote Sensing. Since 2008, Pamela has been on a mission to climb North America’s most challenging inverted and vertical offwidth. Her amazing accomplishiments earned her the prestigious Golden Piton Award for traditional climbing in 2009 for establishing the first ascent of Gabriel 5.13c - a 65′ inverted offwidth roof, in Zion National Park. Todate, Pamela has established more than 50 first female offwidth ascents throughout the American West - including the first female ascent of Lucille 5.13a (onsight) in Vedauwoo, WY.
FFA of the roof variation of Liquid Sky Indian Creek, UT
FA The Dark Passenger 5.12 Long Canyon, UT (Pamela Pack and P Kingsbury)
FFA Goliath (Pitch 2) 5.12a Indian Creek, UT
FA The Soul Assassin 5.12 R Indian Creek, UT (Pamela Pack and P Kingsbury)
FA Gabriel 5.13c Zion, UT
FA Girls Just Wanna Have Guns 5.11a Indian Creek, UT
FA Break A Leg 5.12 Indian Creek, UT
FA The Forever War 5.13 R Vedauwoo, WY
FA Spatial Relations 5.13a Vedauwoo, WY
FA The Event Horizon 5.13 Moab, UT (Pamela Pack and P Kingsbury)
FA The Wing 5.12c, Vedauwoo, WY
PAMELA SHANTI PACK
"The Queen of Off-width !"
If climbing is still a male-dominated sport, then wide crack climbing is the zenith of this gender disparity. However, amidst this blue-collar boys club, one woman stands out. Pamela Pack got into wide crack climbing the hard way after a debilitating forearm injury left her unable to crimp, but placed no limitations on her hand stacking skills or indeed her ability to withstand extreme amounts of pain.
PAMELA SHANTI PACK PODCAST
Also Available on APPLE PODCAST
PAMELA SHANTI PACK VIDEOS
Forever War 5.13c/d R
FOREVER WAR 5.13c/d R was first established by Pamela Shanti Pack in June 2012. To this day, this route is considered one of the hardest 'offwidth' climbs ever established by woman. Forever War is an 85-foot pitch featuring 20 feet of inverted climbing through a steep roof, followed by overhanging arm-bars capped by 30 feet of 5.12a blue-collar groveling. Protected by two bolts, the route still requires a hefty rack. As Pamela describe in her blog..."We added two bolts to the route after a fall put me in the hospital with a damaged kidney. After five days in the hospital, nine days in bed, two surgeries and 100 episodes of Nip and Tuck I returned to Vedauwoo against my doctor’s recommendations. I quickly dispatched of Simianatics and 8 Ounces to Freedom both V9 and considered two of the most difficult two invert offwidths in Vedauwoo. After repeating those hard inverts I concluded I was healthy enough to get back on the project. I was super relieved to finally red-point the route after one more spectacular whip from the crux."
Pamela Shanti Pack is one of the most accomplished off-width climbers in the world (male or female). Since 2008 she has been seeking out North America’s most challenging inverted and vertical off-width climbs. This type of climbing is particularly brutal and attracts only a select group of twisted souls.
In recent years Pamela’s focus has shifted to establishing first ascents in this unique style of climbing. This film follows Pamela in her quest to establish new routes in the desert climbing meca of Indian Creek in southeastern Utah while providing a glimpse into what makes Pamela tick.
The Holy War 5.11d
“I remember Jihad as a route that at some point you quit climbing and start trying to stay alive.” ~Bob Scarpelli
Addicted to Off-Widths
Pamela's previous attempt on this route Spacial Relations 5.13 ended when Pam was knocked unconscious, but she's not the type of person to let that put her off! Some of the wildest moves of any crack out there, including head jams, a sketchy invert and a dangerous finish, this climb is going to be anything but easy.