Winner of the Golden Piton Award
WINNER of the GOLDEN PITON AWARD!
Photo by Tim Kemple
INSPIRED BY THE SUCCESS of Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgenson on Dawn Wall, Will Stanhope successfully free climbed what is being hailed as the most difficult alpine route in North America, earning him the prestigious 2016 Golden Piton Award. Located on the Snowpatch Spire in the Bugaboos of British Columbia, the Tom Egan Memorial Route (5.14), took 150 days over the span of 4 years to free each of the 13 pitches at nearly 12,000 ft.
In an interview with Climbing Magazine, Stanhope said...“It was a head-spinning saga, from originally seeing the line up close, to figuring out the variations, to finally making it happen after a ton of work. I doubt I'll ever come across something that close to my limit and so beautiful. It was a rare gift.” To hear the story behind this momunental achievement, and his thoughts about free soloing Free Rider on El Capitan, and why he thinks Alex Honnold is the only candidate capable of such a feat, please listen to his Podcast Interview.
WILL STANHOPE PODCAST
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WILL STANHOPE VIDEOS
Canadian climber Will Stanhope has made the First Solo Ascent of Peter Croft's famous roof crack, "Zombie Roof "'(5.12d).
In this video Will is showcased free solo climbing on "The Chief " 5.11c in Squamish. The wall is 1,000 ft to the valley floor. The climb follows a crack splitting a wall on the North face of the Chief and requires a number of technical maneuvers at the top.
Arc'teryx athlete Will Stanhope headed to Utah's desert to climb established splitters and find a few of his own. On this trip he established the First Ascent of "Down in Albion" 5.13 R
" My whole mindset for that route was just accepting the fact that I wanted the whole experince. It might not be that pleasant, there's definetly a risk of getting hurt on it, but I just wanted to be there and really having that gung-ho attitude "
Arc'teryx athlete Will Stanhope goes on a free soloing tear in Squamish. Will's tick list : "Crime of the Century" 5.11c; "Whistler 500" 5.12b and "Masses are Asses" 5.12b
Will spends most of his time climbing by himself, regularly cranking out several routes before breakfast. Inspired by classic footage of Stonemaster John Bachar, Will solos a number of the area's super-classics before roping up to take on the laser-cut splitter 'Asteroid Crack' (5.13).
" For Free-Soloing, it's about climbing well well under your limits. Ideally, it's not scary. If it gets scary, it means you've @#%* up "
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