The Rock God !
Date of birth: February 5, 1993 (age 24)
Current Residence: Czech Republic
Height: 185 cm / 6 ft 1 in
Weight: 68 Kg / 150lbs
Profession: Rock Climber
Hardest Sport Climb: Silence 9c / 5.15d, Change, La Dura Dura, Vasil Vasil (all 3 rated 9b+ - 5.15c)
Hardest Big Wall: Dawn Wall 5.14d in 8 days
Hardest Onsight: 9a+ 5.15a
Hardest Bouldering: V16
Competitions: World Champion in both Lead & Bouldering
Sponsors: La Sportiva, Montura, Black Diamond, Tendon, Garda Trentino
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"Climbing is not only about power, it's also about technique. Everybody has to find his way. I usually climb fast and simple"
Adam Ondra is a professional rock climber from the Czech Republic. He is the only athlete to have won the World Championships in two disciplines, lead and bouldering and the only climber to have redpointed three 9b+ (5.15c) routes. See below. At the age of six, Adam started climbing with his parents. At age eight (2001) Adam onsighted 7b+ (5.12c). At the age nine, (2002), Adam onsighted 7c+ (5.13a) and redpointed 8a (5.13b). At the age of ten (2003), Adam onsighted his first 8a (5.13b). At the age eleven (2004) Ondra onsighted several 8a+ (5.13c) and redpointed several 8c (5.14b). At the age of twelve (2005), he onsighted his first 8b (5.13d). At the age of thirteen (2006) Adam sent his first 9a (5.14d), Martin Krpan at Misja Pec. Adam Ondra has recently qualified for the 2021 Summer Olympics.
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ADAM ONDRA VIDEOS
A quarry from volcanic rock in Brno, Czechia offers few, but good quality boulder problems. Adam Ondra battles The Edge Problem and sends Yorkshire Sit Start 8B/8B+ - V13/V14
Adam Ondra establishes the First Ascent of Direct Bongada 9a/5.14d. It links the hard first part of Directa Rodillar and all the hard parts of La Bongada.
Víctimas Perez 9a is a power endurance route consisting of two finger pockets, pulling on a steep overhang.
"Victimas Perez is a 9a that might have required the most effort ever for me. It is my absolute nemesis route."
After numerous attempts, Adam Ondra in his usual finesse and skill sends 'Atene Naturale" 9a/5.14d
Adam Ondra makes the first ascent of Bohemian Rhapsody 9a+ . The hardest route in Bohemia.
A movie by Bernardo Gimenez shows how on September 3, 2017, Adam Ondra sent the World's First 9C/ 5.15d "Silence" aka Project Hard in Hanshelleren Cave, Norway
"Doing something easy does not really make any impact on your life. That’s why a challenging goal is what really motivates me, or frustrates me. Or both - you can hardly have one without the other."
In typical Ondra fashion, Adam Ondra battles to the top of "Change", the World's First 9b+/5.15C. Located in Norway’s Flatanger region, the climb is composed of two stacked pitches completed in one push, without rest. The first pitch offers 20 meters of 5.15a/b climbing and the second provides another 30 meters of 5.14d.
"Change is inevitable, progress is optional."
Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra spent two years working together to climb La Dura Dura (5.15c / 9b+), the world's hardest climb. This film tells the story of their unique collaboration and shows Adam's historic first ascent and Chris' second ascent. Presented by prAna, Black Diamond, Sterling Rope, Evolv, Petzl, and Walltopia. With music by Build Buildings, Abel Okugawa, Okai, Animals on Wheels, Pascal Savy, and The Green Kingdom.
"The route is significantly harder than any 9b (5.15b) I have ever done; I am quite sure it is 9b+ (5.15c). The route was harder for me than Change, but that one fits my style better. There are very specific moves that require a lot of flexibility, which was perfect for me [on Change]. In general, I think both of them are equally difficult to repeat, and both of them deserve the grade of 9b+."
Feb 2016, Adam Ondra captured the second ascent of Chris Sharma unrepeated route at the Santa Linya cave in Catalunya, Spain "Stoking the Fire" 9b/5.15b. According to Sharma, the style of the route is very steep, powerful and continuous. There aren't any places to shake and you just have to climb super tight and precise nonstop. There is like a seven move crux with a bunch of left-hand underclings and several hard stabs to a two and one finger pocket. The climbing is very involved and complex. For every hand move you have to do several foot moves.
"After falling on the route repeatedly, I somehow managed to convince my body to stay there. It was some kind of miracle. "
Chaxi Raxi was originally bolted by Chris Sharma, but the first ascent went to Adam Ondra. According to Ondra, "Chaxi Raxi "9b/5.15b is a stunning 50-meter long wall of orange and blue limestone with complex climbing. It felt very difficult at the beginning, especially the very first crux. I could do every single move, but to link two of them seemed incredibly difficult. The top part seemed more possible—I could link the moves without serious problems except two of them, where I found terrible extra-powerful beta skipping two holds, until Chris told me to try it differently, a much more crimpy and static way. Though crimps are what I excel at and Chris prefers big moves on reasonable holds, our initial betas had been completely the other way around.
"I knew if I was trying it for a long time, I would probably succeed. But the good thing, as I tried more and more, the muscles remembered better and better, and the moves were getting easier and easier. And then with a good mental thing, there was an obvious progression. "
Adam Ondra sends yet another Chris Sharma project,"Mamichula" capturing his 8th 9b first ascent. Not only is this a record, but it's absolutely mind blowing when you consider he's the only person in the world to send all three 9b+. The only other person to send a 9b+ has been Chris Sharma, who captured the 2nd ascent of La Dura Dura after Ondra.
"Craaazy day! It was so windy that I thought it would be impossible to climb. Then it got a little more still. In the end, I took down this project of Chris Sharma's, I think Mamichula 9b (hard) could be a good name. Incredible power endurance without any rest. "
History was made when Adam Ondra captured his second 9a/5.14d onsight "Il Domani", proving his first, which was on July 9, 2013, in Rawyl, Switzerland, was not a fluke. According to Patxi Usobiaga, who made the first ascent of II Domani back in 2003, called Ondra's ascent "The most impressive climbing I have ever seen!" Worthy note: The world's first 5.14d onsight was claimed by Alex Megos a few months earlier on March 24, 2013, when he sent Estado Crítico in Siurana, Spain.
"Been waiting for this for such long time, saving for an onsight. Almost tried last year in less than ideal conditions, but the decision I made was good. Today everything was perfect. Awesome temps and well rested, and that was just enough to send this beautiful route. So happy. My hardest onsight ever for sure."
Adam Ondra make the first ascent of "Robin Ud" (5.15b/9b), a powerful 12-meter route in Slovakia. Although the route, an old Slovakian project, is only 12 meters long, Ondra calls it "quite pumpy," and says it's possible to fall off any one of the moves because each is extremely difficult, even when done separately..
In an astonishing display of human fitness, Adam Ondra made swift work of Barnabé Fernandez' 82m marathon of a route "Chilam Balam" 9b/5.15b at Villanueva del Rosario, near Málaga in southern Spain. Barnabé, who worked Chilam Balam for three seasons before he made the first ascent. Source: UK Climbing
"The key is the ability to recover well and fast in the kneebars. I could feel pretty fresh when setting off from the rest position, but after so many meters of climbing I was pumped again after a couple of moves. The crux comes on the very top, and last 14 moves are definitely the crux of the whole route, you have to sprint through them as quickly as possible since you can hardly even chalk up there and the moves are difficult even as single moves. If this crux was excluded, the route is not more than 9a/+."
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Adam Ondra climbs one of his hard projects in magic Flatanger cave in Norway. The route was so tricky, that he called it "Illusionist" 9a/5.14d
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