ADAM ONDRA

 The Rock God !

Date of birth: February 5, 1993 (age 24)

Current Residence: Czech Republic

Height: 185 cm / 6 ft 1 in 

Weight: 68 Kg / 150lbs

Profession: Rock Climber

Hardest Sport Climb: Silence 9c / 5.15d, Change, La Dura Dura, Vasil Vasil (all 3 rated 9b+ - 5.15c)

Hardest Big Wall: Dawn Wall 5.14d in 8 days

Hardest Onsight: 9a+  5.15a

Hardest Bouldering: V16

Competitions: World Champion in both Lead & Bouldering

Sponsors: La Sportiva, Montura, Black Diamond, Tendon, Garda Trentino

Website: www.adamondra.com

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ABOUT:

Adam Ondra is a professional rock climber from the Czech Republic. He is the only athlete to have won the World Championships in two disciplines, lead and bouldering and the only climber to have redpointed three 9b+ (5.15c) routes.  See below.  At the age of six, Adam started climbing with his parents.  At age eight (2001) Adam onsighted 7b+ (5.12c).   At the age nine, (2002), Adam onsighted 7c+ (5.13a) and redpointed 8a (5.13b).  At the age of ten (2003), Adam onsighted his first 8a (5.13b).   At the age eleven (2004) Ondra onsighted several 8a+ (5.13c) and redpointed several 8c (5.14b).   At the age of twelve (2005), he onsighted his first 8b (5.13d).   At the age of thirteen (2006) Adam sent his first 9a (5.14d), Martin Krpan at Misja Pec. 

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"Climbing is not only about power, it's also about technique.  Everybody has to find his way.  I usually climb fast and simple"

In 2007 and 2008 he won the IFSC Youth World Championship category Youth B.   In 2009, at age sixteen, Ondra competed for the first time in the Lead Climbing World Cup and won, beating Spanish Patxi Usobiaga and Japanese Sachi Amma.   In 2010 he also won the Bouldering World Cup, beating Austrian Kilian Fischhuber and Japanese Tsukuru Hori, and becoming the first athlete in history to win both the disciplines (lead and bouldering).  In March 2011, Ondra became the second person ever to onsight 8c+ (5.14c) after Patxi Usobiaga. In a couple of days he onsighted five 8c+ (5.14c) routes (two of which on the same day).   On October 4, 2012, Ondra sent Change (see video below), found in the Hanshelleren Cave in Flatanger, Norway. It is the first route to receive a proposed grade of 9b+ (5.15c).

On February 7, 2013, Ondra sent La Dura Dura, in Oliana, Catalonia, Spain, his second 9b+ (5.15c) after Change. He worked on this route with Chris Sharma, taking nine weeks complete.

On July 9, 2013, Ondra realized the second 9a (5.14d) onsight in history after Alexander Megos, with the ascent of Cabane au Canada in Rawyl, Switzerland.  On November 21, 2016, Ondra completed the second free ascent of the 5.14d (9a) The Dawn Wall, in Yosemite Valley, California. The route is widely regarded as the hardest big wall in the world. Ondra was also the first person to lead every pitch. The first free ascent was completed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in January 2015.

Margo Hayes

Silence a.k.a. Project Hard! 

 World's First 9c-5.15d

"Doing something easy does not really make any impact on your life. That’s why a challenging goal is what really motivates me, or frustrates me. Or both - you can hardly have one without the other."

Change - World's First 9b+/5.15c

The project had a potential to be a great change in terms of difficulty of sport climbing, the hardest route in the world at that time. Also, it was a great change in my life as I just finished high school. It meant a change for Flatanger as a climbing area as well because soon it was going to attract many more people. And lastly, the style of climbing changes a lot as you climb upwards. From brutally powerful and steep, to vertical and then less overhanging and pumpy.

I had a feeling that this project could be something else, something different from what I did in the past. It was harder than anything I had done before. And, it was obvious that this was not going to be a question of a few days like many other hard routes for me.  Time to change.

 

Figuring out the moves, trying to make links from bolt to bolt, giving it first real goes, refining the beta, getting frustrated, dealing with the frustration... It’s hard to put into words those five weeks when I worked on the route. Sometimes I hated the process, sometimes I really enjoyed it.

The challenge is what I liked about it the most. Doing something easy does not really make any impact on your life. That’s why a challenging goal is what really motivates me, or frustrates me. Or both - you can hardly have one without the other.

 

My motivation is partly driven by desire to succeed but also, even more importantly, by frustration. Because motivation only plants the seed but to make it grow and to keep motivation up is always the crucial thing. That is why I had to change my frustration into motivation. Easier said than done. And the hardest thing of all is to believe in your goal, in yourself.

"

The Change has become the epitome of hard sport climbing. The first 9b+, still one of the hardest routes in the world and the most important climbing achievement so far. It has helped Flatanger to turn into a world-famous climbing destination.

But most importantly, the Change and the process of working on it changed me. And in an entirely positive way, no matter how much of a struggle it was. Thanks to the Change, I matured. And I will definitely never forget the route because - “change is inevitable, progress is optional”. This is the quote I like the most. I am glad I chose the right option back then, and I will always try to.  Read entire blog @ http://www.adamondra.com/projects/change

"Change is inevitable, progress is optional."

La Dura Dura 9b+/5.15c

Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra spent two years working together to climb La Dura Dura (5.15c / 9b+), the world's hardest climb. This film tells the story of their unique collaboration and shows Adam's historic first ascent and Chris' second ascent. Presented by prAna, Black Diamond, Sterling Rope, Evolv, Petzl, and Walltopia. With music by Build Buildings, Abel Okugawa, Okai, Animals on Wheels, Pascal Savy, and The Green Kingdom. 

"The route is significantly harder than any 9b (5.15b) I have ever done; I am quite sure it is 9b+ (5.15c). The route was harder for me than Change, but that one fits my style better. There are very specific moves that require a lot of flexibility, which was perfect for me [on Change]. In general, I think both of them are equally difficult to repeat, and both of them deserve the grade of 9b+."

Move 9b/5.15b

In May 2013, Adam Ondra drilled a few very hard projects in the "Flatanger cave". In August 2013, it was time to get back to Norway and to start working them. It was our 4th long trip to far Norway during the last year. Adam chose one 55m long one, all the time in the overhang, big part of it in the 100% roof, including the crux. It seemed to be as hard as Change, the world´s first 9b+, which he established here in October 2012.

"I think the only way to get better for this route is to make one arm dead hangs swings."

Stoking the Fire 9b/5.15b

Feb 2016, Adam Ondra captured the second ascent of Chris Sharma unrepeated route at the Santa Linya cave in Catalunya, Spain.  According to Sharma, the style of the route is very steep, powerful and continuous.  There aren't any places to shake and you just have to climb super tight and precise nonstop.  There is like a seven move crux with a bunch of left-hand underclings and several hard stabs to a two and one finger pocket. The climbing is very involved and complex. For every hand move you have to do several foot moves.

"After falling on the route repeatedly, I somehow managed to convince my body to stay there.  It was some kind of miracle. "

Chaxi Raxi 9b/5.15b

Chaxi Raxi was originally bolted by Chris Sharma, but the first ascent went to Adam Ondra.   Accorind to Ondra, Chaxi Raxi is a stunning 50-meter long wall of orange and blue limestone with complex climbing.  It felt very difficult at the beginning, especially the very first crux. I could do every single move, but to link two of them seemed incredibly difficult. The top part seemed more possible—I could link the moves without serious problems except two of them, where I found terrible extra-powerful beta skipping two holds, until Chris told me to try it differently, a much more crimpy and static way. Though crimps are what I excel at and Chris prefers big moves on reasonable holds, our initial betas had been completely the other way around.

"I knew if I was trying it for a long time, I would probably succeed.  But the good thing, as I tried more and more, the muscles remembered better and better, and the moves were getting easier and easier.  And then with a good mental thing, there was an obvious progression. "

Mamichula 9b/5.15b

Adam Ondra sends yet another Chris Sharma project, capturing his 8th 9b first ascent.   Not only is this a record, but it's absolutely mind blowing when you consider he's the only person in the world to send all three 9b+.   The only other person to send a 9b+ has been Chris Sharma, who captured the 2nd ascent of La Dura Dura after Ondra.

"Craaazy day! It was so windy that I thought it would be impossible to climb. Then it got a little more still.  In the end, I took down this project of Chris Sharma's, I think Mamichula 9b (hard) could be a good name.   Incredible power endurance without any rest. "

Il Domani 9a/5.14d  Onsight

History was made when Adam Ondra captured his second 9a onsight, proving his first, which was on July 9, 2013, in Rawyl, Switzerland, was not a fluke.  According to Patxi Usobiaga, who made the first ascent of II Domani back in 2003, called Ondra's ascent "The most impressive climbing I have ever seen!"   Worthy note: The world's first 5.14d onsight was claimed by Alex Megos a few months earlier on March 24, 2013, when he sent Estado Crítico in Siurana, Spain.

"Been waiting for this for such long time, saving for an onsight.  Almost tried last year in less than ideal conditions, but the decision I made was good. Today everything was perfect. Awesome temps and well rested, and that was just enough to send this beautiful route. So happy.  My hardest onsight ever for sure." 

Robin 9b/5.15b

Adam Ondra make the first ascent of Robin Ud (5.15b/9b), a powerful 12-meter route in Slovakia. Although the route, an old Slovakian project, is only 12 meters long, Ondra calls it "quite pumpy," and says it's possible to fall off any one of the moves because each is extremely difficult, even when done separately..

Chilam Balam 9b/5.15b

"The key is the ability to recover well and fast in the kneebars. I could feel pretty fresh when setting off from the rest position, but after so many meters of climbing I was pumped again after a couple of moves.  The crux comes on the very top, and last 14 moves are definitely the crux of the whole route, you have to sprint through them as quickly as possible since you can hardly even chalk up there and the moves are difficult even as single moves. If this crux was excluded, the route is not more than 9a/+." 

In an astonishing display of human fitness, Adam Ondra made swift work of Barnabé Fernandez' 82m marathon of a route at Villanueva del Rosario, near Málaga in southern Spain. Barnabé, who worked Chilam Balam for three seasons before he made the first ascent.   Source: UK Climbing

 

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Illusionist 9a - Flatanger Norway

ADAM ONDRA 9B and 9B+
03/2010 Golpe de Estado, Siurana, Spain, repeat
02/2011 La Capella, Siurana, Spain. 9b, first ascent
03/2011 Chaxi Raxi, Oliana, Spain. 9b, first ascent
04/2011 Chilam Balam, Villanueva del Rosario, Spain. 9b, repeat
04/2011 La Planta de Shiva, Villanueva del Rosario, Spain. 9b, first ascent
10/2012 Change, Flatanger / Hanshallaren, Norway. 9b+, first ascent
02/2013 Fight or Flight, Oliana, Spain. 9b, repeat
02/2013 Dura Dura, Oliana, Spain. 9b+, first ascent
08/2013 Iron Curtain, Flatanger / Hanshallaren, Norway. 9b, first ascent
08/2013 Move, Flatanger / Hanshallaren, Norway. 9b, first ascent
12/2013 Vasil Vasil, Sloup, Czech Republic. 9b+, first ascent
02/2014 First Round First Minute, Margalef, Spain. 9b, repeat
11/2015 C.R.S., Mollans, France. 9b, first ascent
02/2016 Stoking the Fire, Santa Linya, Spain. 9b, repeat
10/2016 Robin Úd 9b, Alternativna stena, Slovakia, first ascent
02/2017 Pachamama, Oliana, Spain. 9b, repeat
02/2017 Mamichula, Oliana, Spain. 9b, first ascent

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