"The Russian Rocket"
Date of birth: December 6th 1987 (Age 28)
Location: Tekeli, Kazakhstan
Height: 5ft 6 in (1.68 m)
Weight: 110lb (50 kg)
Profession: Rock Climbing / Bouldering
Highest Bouldering Grade: Hypnotic Minds V16 (8c+)
Highest Redpoint Grade: Action Directe 9a / 5.14d
Favorite Music: Techno
Status: Married with Child
Sponsors: Red Bull
"Nothing Compares to Climbing!"
Photo: Courtesy of Red Bull
“Psychologically, the World Championship is not easy for me, because I was already second there and also third twice as well. All the signs, though, are that this year will be different. I’m trying to change my attitude to the competition. For a long time I’ve known that he who wins is the one who truly wants to and yet at the same time is natural and doesn’t worry. It’s hard to accept the fact that physical training is not all you need to take gold.”
RUSTAM GELMANOV PODCAST
Also Available on APPLE PODCAST
"For a long time I’ve known that he who wins is the one who truly wants to and yet at the same time is natural and doesn’t worry."
RUSTAM GELMANOV VIDEOS
IT HAD BEEN TWO YEARS since his last World Cup Victory, but April 24th, Five Ten / Redbull athlete Rustam Gelmanov captured Gold at the Kazo, Japan - World Cup Bouldering Championship. Although he wasn't able to repeat his victory at the Vail, Colorado World Cup, he made the first repeat of Daniel Woods Hypnotized Minds, V16 (8C+) in Rocky Mountain National Park. What's important to note, this boulder problem went unrepeated for nearly six years, thwarfing attempts from climbers like David Graham and Paul Robinson. See the video of this ascent on his profile page.
To hear our exclusive interview with Rustam, please listen to the Podcast below and Subscribe.
“All that matters is how much you push your limits and how many mistakes you make. If you overcome yourself and become better during competition then you’ll leave with a medal in the soul. If, besides that, you also perform better than the others, then you will receive a real medal to confirm the internal one.”
Action Directe 9a/5.14d
Rustam Gelmanov has sent the world’s benchmark 9a (5.14d), Action Directe. Gelmanov is the first Russian to climb the iconic route in Germany’s Frankenjura. Action Directe was the world’s first 5.14d, established by Wolfgang Gullich in 1991. Since then it has seen at least 16 ascents though it still represents a rite of passage for many hard sport climbers and the list of climber’s to have sent it reads like a who’s who of hard climbing
Rustam Gelmanov on Men's Problem 4:
What. A. Move! On the buzzer, last go, Oh my god! The crowd went wild for this and it's easy to see why as it is one of the most crazy moves you will see in any competition. Rustam pulled it out of the bag and secured 2nd place at The Rab CWIF 2016
Rustam Gelmanov on Problem 4. What. A. Move! On the buzzer, last go. The crowd went wild for this and it's easy to see why as it is one of the most crazy moves you will see in any competition. Rustam pulled it out of the bag and secured 2nd place at The Rab CWIF 2016