"The Russian Rocket"
Date of birth: June 12, 1987 Tekeli, Kazakhstan
Height: 5ft 6 in (1.68 m)
Weight: 110lb (50 kg)
Profession: Rock Climber/ Boulderer
Highest Bouldering Grade: Hypnotic Minds V16 (8c+)
Highest Redpoint Grade: Action Directe 9a / 5.14d
Sponsors: Red Bull
“All that matters is how much you push your limits and how many mistakes you make. If you overcome yourself and become better during competition then you’ll leave with a medal in the soul. If, besides that, you also perform better than the others, then you will receive a real medal to confirm the internal one.”
RUSTAM GELMANOV PODCAST
Also Available on APPLE PODCAST
"For a long time I’ve known that he who wins is the one who truly wants to and yet at the same time is natural and doesn’t worry."
RUSTAM GELMANOV VIDEOS
Rustam Gelmanov has sent the world’s benchmark 9a (5.14d), Action Directe. Gelmanov is the first Russian to climb the iconic route in Germany’s Frankenjura. Action Directe was the world’s first 5.14d, established by Wolfgang Gullich in 1991. Since then it has seen at least 16 ascents though it still represents a rite of passage for many hard sport climbers and the list of climber’s to have sent it reads like a who’s who of hard climbing
Rustam Gelmanov tours Mexico to share his simplicity, joy and passion for climbing in the Mexican bouldering Mecca Penole in Chihuahua.