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Date of birth: August 17th 1986 (age 29) 

Born:Boulder, Colorado

Residence:Squaw Valley, CA. USA

Height:5 ft 2 in (1.57 cm)

Profession:  Rock Climber, Alpinist

Nick Name: Em 

Hardest Redpoint: 5.14B

Hardest Onsight: 5.13C

Hardest Boulder Problem: V9

Hardest Traditional Climb: 5.13A

Hardest Mixed Climb: M9

Number of 5.14 Redpoints: 11

Number of First Female Ascents (5.13d or harder): 14

Summitted Mt. Everest & Mt. Blanc in 2011


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Emily Harrington sends Homunculus 5.14a in Rifle, Colorado

34 year old Emily Harrington has become the first woman to climb "Golden Gate" 5.13 route with 41 pitches on El Capitan. Despite having slipped along the way on one of the pitches and gashing her forehead, she decided to proceed "I deserve to try one more time."

On November 3, 2020, Emily Harrington climbed "Golden Gate" 5.13 , 41 pitches in a day in 21 hours and 13 minutes ! Emily Harrington became the first woman to free climb the famed Golden Gate route in El Capitan.

In the autumn of 2015, Emily Harrington, Adrian Ballinger, Hilaree O’Neill and Jim Morrison traveled to Nepal’s Himalaya to climb and ski Makalu, at 8462m the fifth highest mountain in the world. This was Harrington’s first attempt at an 8000er without supplementary oxygen - in 2012 she summited Everest with O2 - and this is her personal story of their very ambitious attempt of a feat to climb and ski from its summit which had never been achieved before. This is their story.

After six days and 40 pitches, on May 31, 2015, Emily Harrington topped out on El Capitan's "Golden Gate" Route 5.13. Harrington completed one of the more impressive free climbs in women's rock climbing history.

 At the crux of “The Move,” which is the first 5.13 pitch on Golden Gate and a couple days into the climb. It requires a stressful few moves involving holding two tiny opposing holds and pulling out on them. The movement reminded me of trying to pull apart two elevator doors and took me several dozen tries to do successfully.

Emily Harrington has big goals for 2015 - from free climbing the "Golden Gate" 5.13 on El Capitan to summiting Makalu without oxygen.

" No matter what, don't give up and let yourself think you can't be strong again. You've been where you want to be before, and you can be there again - and be even better. All you have to do is put in the time and effort. In the end, it's all about wanting it. "

.Wacka Flocka 5.14b is Harrington's hardest route yet - she had 5o attempts on this route before finally sending it in October in Rifle, Colorado. It's a powerful and  bouldery route, which  she says isn't her style at all. 

." I start obsessing over it. I'm thinking too much, and I'm caring too much. when in reality it's just a rock climb. Every time I project a route I get to the one hang phase and I start obsessing over it, and I get angry and I put a lot of pressure on myself and I have really high expectations. Finally I say " okay, I need to not care so much and once I reach that phase, generally I'm successful. "



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