"The King of Off-Width !"
Date of birth: Feb 1980 (Age 36)
Height: 5ft 10 in (1.78 m)
Weight: 152lb (69 kg)
Profession: Rock Climbing & Business Owner
Highest Boulering Grade: V13 (8b)
Highest Redpoint Grade: 5.14b
Highest Trad: 5.14c 8c+ / 5.14c / E10
Favorite Music: Lady Gaga
Favorite Movie: Cria Cuervos
About: Tom Randall is a keen trad climber and has established many first ascents all over the world, mostly involving some kind of crack climbing. In 2011 he teamed up with Pete Whittaker to take on the world's hardest offwidth crack Century Crack, which is documented in the film "Wide Boyz" from Hotaches. His current project is to make the first ascent of “The Crucifix” in the USA.
"GET STRONG or DIE TRYING!"
"Over the years I’ve been injured far more times that I’d like to admit to myself. It’s been absolutely soul crushing sometimes, but over time I’ve learnt a really useful skill: sideways motivation deflection. Every bit of psyche that I’ve got I’ll plough with total energy into what I can do without affecting my particular injury. The list of “sideways deflection” results during the last 5 years probably now reads as the few things that I’m actually quite good at; off-widthing, hand jamming, pinky hangs, core conditioning, and index monos."
TOM RANDALL PODCAST
Available on APPLE PODCAST
TOM RANDALL VIDEOS
Tom Randall battles it out on "The Kraken" V13, a 40 ft long horizontal roof rack at the Hartland Quay.
"When I first tried this move I was convinced that my forearm or finger would explode with a loud bang". "It’s a long horizontal span to a back-hander mono, followed by a 270 degree spin through and hard move to a thin hands jam, which is immediately followed by a really gnarly ring-lock move"
Tom Randall makes the second ascent of "Appointment with Death" E9 6C, a Sam Whittaker's masterpiece that remained unrepeated for 10 years. The pebble pulling climbing and the name had put people off from trying it.
"Often when you go out with friends at the crag, one or maybe two of you come away something really ballsy in the bag. It’s just the way it works out. One of you mops up the collective pysche and cashes in, whilst the others are often happy to support and wait their turn some other day. When myself, Pete and Nathan Lee headed up to Wimberry we all had projects that we vaguely hoped we might climb that day, but it all depended on time, temperatures, sequences and luck. By the end of the day though, the planets had aligned and somehow all three of us had succeeded. It’s strange looking back on the day now and it seems with retrospect that as each person succeeded, that made the next person even more motivated and committed. It was like a tsunami of positive gritstone force was rushing up the Wimberry slopes to push gravity the other way."
OCTOBER 2011, British climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker climbed what many are hailing as the hardest offwidth in the world "Century Crack" 5.14b/8c.Located in Utah’s Canyonlands, Century Crack thwarft numerous attempts, including the free-climbing prodigy Stevie Haston, who estimated the grade to be around 5.14b. What's estonishing is the amount of motivation these two climbers possessed. As you will hear in the Podcast below, they spent two years training in the dungeon (as Tom likes to call it), perfecting their off width technique on wooden cracks that were hung from the ceiling in Tom's basement.
“The Century Crack is the most beautiful off-width crack I know, and if you want to be successful as a climber and reach your limits, you really do need creativity. I’m thinking of Alex Honnold, Chris Sharma and Ueli Steck—people who inspire us because in climbing they have found their own personal style and expression.”
Tom Randall establishes the First Ascent of "Pura Pura " 5.14C/8C+ in Italy's Valle dell'Orco. The route consists of linking the bouldering traverse "The Greenshadow " to "Greenspit" with the crux of the climb at the end. It is 25 meters/ 82 feet of steep roof crack climbing.
"Trying to push the standards in crack climbing has been a long journey and finally this year I feel like I've made some break throughs. This trailer is a little introduction into The Pura Pura project that I envisaged a while back where The Green Shadow could be linked directly into Greenspit to make possibly the world's hardest bit of crack climbing. Having succeeded on this line a few days ago, I now know that the next steps are possible. I hope others are inspired to delve into the strange world of crack climbing... it's not all painful!"
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