"The King of Off-Width !"

Date of birth: Feb 1980 (Age 36)

Location: UK

Height: 5ft 10 in (1.78 m)

Weight: 152lb (69 kg)

Profession: Rock Climbing & Business Owner

Highest Boulering Grade: V13 (8b)

Highest Redpoint Grade:  5.14b  

Highest Trad: 5.14c 8c+ / 5.14c / E10

Favorite Music: Lady Gaga

Favorite Movie: Cria Cuervos

Status: Married


"Over the years I’ve been injured far more times that I’d like to admit to myself. It’s been absolutely soul crushing sometimes, but over time I’ve learnt a really useful skill: sideways motivation deflection. Every bit of psyche that I’ve got I’ll plough with total energy into what I can do without affecting my particular injury. The list of “sideways deflection” results during the last 5 years probably now reads as the few things that I’m actually quite good at; off-widthing, hand jamming, pinky hangs, core conditioning, and index monos."  


Also Available on APPLE PODCAST


Century Crack 5.14b

The World's Most Difficult Off-Width !

OCTOBER 2011, British climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker climbed what many are hailing as the hardest offwidth in the world.  Located in Utah’s Canyonlands, Century Crack thwarft numerous attempts, including the free-climbing prodigy Stevie Haston, who estimated the grade to be around 5.14b.  What's estonishing is the amount of motivation these two climbers possessed.  As you will hear in the Podcast below, they spent two years training in the dungeon (as Tom likes to call it), perfecting their off width technique on wooden cracks that were hung from the ceiling in Tom's basement.  


And the training paid off.  While visiting the United States, the two, a.k.a. The Wideboyz, decimated every offwidth in their path.  Test pieces like Lucille (5.13a) in Vedauwoo, Wyoming, were dismissed on their first or second try.   And in Little Cottonwood Canyon in Utah, both Tom and Pete onsighted Trench Warfare (5.12.d) with Tom free soloing it afterwards just for shit and giggles.  


Feeling ready to take on Century Crack, Randall and Whittaker worked the 40-meter (130 feet) off width roof over the course of a single day, then returned and sent the route the following morning.  Even though there was some minor controversy about how the camming devices were left in place between each attempt, the overwhelming majority of climbers hailed their ascent as one of the greatest achievements of our time.  To hear how they prepared for this ascent, both mentally and physically, please listen to the Podcast below.  

“The Century Crack is the most beautiful off-width crack I know, and if you want to be successful as a climber and reach your limits, you really do need creativity.  I’m thinking of Alex Honnold, Chris Sharma and Ueli Steck—people who inspire us because in climbing they have found their own personal style and expression.”  

Pura Pura 5.14c First Ascent

Pura Pura 5.14c First Ascent

"Trying to push the standards in crack climbing has been a long journey and finally this year I feel like I've made some break throughs. This trailer is a little introduction into The Pura Pura project that I envisaged a while back where The Green Shadow could be linked directly into Greenspit to make possibly the world's hardest bit of crack climbing. Having succeeded on this line a few days ago, I now know that the next steps are possible. I hope others are inspired to delve into the strange world of crack climbing... it's not all painful!" 


Appointment with Death E9/5.14b

"Often when you go out with friends at the crag, one or maybe two of you come away something really ballsy in the bag. It’s just the way it works out. One of you mops up the collective pysche and cashes in, whilst the others are often happy to support and wait their turn some other day. When myself, Pete and Nathan Lee headed up to Wimberry we all had projects that we vaguely hoped we might climb that day, but it all depended on time, temperatures, sequences and luck. By the end of the day though, the planets had aligned and somehow all three of us had succeeded. It’s strange looking back on the day now and it seems with retrospect that as each person succeeded, that made the next person even more motivated and committed. It was like a tsunami of positive gritstone force was rushing up the Wimberry slopes to push gravity the other way."