Residence: Sheffield, England
Home Climbing Area: The Peak District
Profession: Professional Rock Climber
Climbing Partner: Tom Randall
Hardest Ascents: Century Crack 5.14b, Cobra Crack 5.14a
Greatest Achievement: 1st 'All Free' Roped Solo Ascent of Free Rider (34 pitches) in a single day!
"The Gritstone God! "
"The hardest challenges were just keeping going when you're tired. It's easy to give in when you're by yourself. I just focused on one pitch at a time, and before you know it, you're closer than you think. I had a low point at the top of the Monster Offwidth ( a notorious rope length of 5.11 offwidth/squeee chimney) in The Alcove. I think it was a mixture of not climbing it that well, along with the fact that my body wanted to be sleeping at that point. I had to fight on the endurance Corner ( a 5.12 dihedral high on the route below Salathe headwall )... I just pulled myself a massive loop of slack and gunned it for the jug. It would have been a good fall, if I'd come off there." Pete Whittaker
El Capitan-Rope Solo 2ohrs 6mins
On November 11th and 12th 2016, Pete Whittaker forever etched his name in the history books by becoming the first person to rope solo 'All free' El Capitan in under 24 hours, finishing the Free Rider (5,1`2d - 34 pitches) in a mind boggling 20 hours and 6 minutes.
PETE WHITTAKER PODCAST
Also Available on APPLE PODCAST
PETE WHITTAKER VIDEOS
“The ascent made by Pete on Freerider to me is hopefully the dawn of a new style of big wall solo climbing. Big wall solo climbing on El Capitan for many years was just aid climbing. Now Pete has proven that it's possible to do that free climbing, but relatively fast” - Tom Randall
Century Crack 5.14b
World's Most Difficult Off-Width!
“The Century Crack is the most beautiful off-width crack I know, and if you want to be successful as a climber and reach your limits, you really do need creativity. I’m thinking of Alex Honnold, Chris Sharma and Ueli Steck—people who inspire us because in climbing they have found their own personal style and expression.” Tom Randall
OCTOBER 2011, British climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker climbed what many are hailing as the hardest offwidth in the world. Located in Utah’s Canyonlands, Century Crack thwarft numerous attempts, including the free-climbing prodigy Stevie Haston, who estimated the grade to be around 5.14d. What's estonishing is the amount of motivation these two climbers possessed. As you will hear in the Podcast below, they spent two years training in the dungeon (as Tom likes to call it), perfecting their off width technique on wooden cracks that were hung from the ceiling in Tom's basement.
And the training paid off. While visiting the United States, the two, a.k.a. The Wideboyz, decimated every offwidth in their path. Test pieces like Lucille (5.13a) in Vedauwoo, Wyoming, were dismissed on their first or second try. And in Little Cottonwood Canyon in Utah, both Tom and Pete onsighted Trench Warfare (5.12.d) with Tom free soloing it afterwards just for shit and giggles.
Feeling ready to take on Century Crack, Randall and Whittaker worked the 40-meter (130 feet) off width roof over the course of a single day, then returned and sent the route the following morning. Even though there was some minor controversy about how the camming devices were left in place between each attempt, the overwhelming majority of climbers hailed their ascent as one of the greatest achievements of our time.
Baron Greenback E9/10 7a FA
Baron Greenback, E9/10 7a is one of UK's hardest routes, cementing Pete's status as the "Gritstone God"
"Baron Greenback is the hardest thing I've done on grit and an accumulation of everything I've learnt climbing on gritstone, along with a bit of consistent training on some weaknesses. I'm very pleased to have done this route. First ascents are always more special than repeats."
Psychosomatic Pigeon E7 6c FA
Silent Scream E7 6c FA
"The protection is a few ancient rusty bolts, which date back in time when aid climbing was practiced on this crag (1960's ?)"