Date of birth: May 30, 1986
Location: San Francisco, California
Height: 5ft 10 in (1.78 m)
Weight: 150lb (68 kg)
Profession: Professional Rock Climber
Highest Boulering Grade: V15 (8c)
Highest Redpoint Grade: 5.15b/c (9b) Jumbo Love
Highest Onsight: 5.14b (8c)
Favorite Music: Indie Rock or Hip Hop
"THINK POSITIVE or at least be open to the possibility that you can and will do it.
Listen to what you're telling yourself when you're on the route, approaching the crux.
Are you telling yourself that you're going to fall?
Maybe that's the case because you have gotten into the habit of falling there.
Try telling yourself that you've got this! You know this and all you have to do is stay calm and execute. And don't forget to breathe and try really fucking hard!”
ETHAN PRINGLE PODCAST
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“Projecting is hard work and can turn from being something new and challenging and exciting into a chore or a job you have to clock into after a while, especially when the progress slows or stops. Give yourself a big pat on the back for your progress and gaining new milestones on the climb and go easy on yourself on the days when it feels harder or links aren't happening and expectations aren't met. Maybe it's humid, or maybe the cosmos has it out for you? No worries!”
ETHAN PRINGLE VIDEOS
Ethan Pringle makes the fifth ascent of "Kintsugi " V15 (8c/5.14b), first established by Nalle Hukkataival in Red Rocks, Nevada. Committing moves up high, Kintsugi has all the pleasing features of a King line.
On February 10, 2018, Ethan Pringle sends the 23 moves "The Nest" 8c/5.14b first ascended by Daniel Woods in 2013.
"More than 50 days of effort, hundreds of miles of hiking, hundreds of hours spent at this boulder, thousands of tries, and it was all over in a minute. I’d finally had the experience I was looking for. All the hard work and determination; all the blood, sweat, and tears; all the self-criticism and self-doubt; and all the enduring hope made it that much more powerful. It was a journey I’ll never forget."
Ethan Pringle flashes the iconic 10 pitch of 5.12+ "Moonlight Buttress" in Zion
"I’ve wanted to attempt the ultra classic, 10 pitch Moonlight Buttress for a while now. Many hardcore trad folk say it’s their favorite free route. Well, it lives up to the hype! Is there another climb in the world with so many difficult finger cracks in a row? And in such an exposed, beautiful place? Gol-ly!"
Ethan Pringle captures the First Ascent of "Everything is Karate" 5.14c-d/9a. This is one of the hardest routes in CA. The climb is an overhanging granite and sustained. Steep with a lot of hard moves all the way to the end.
“The uniqueness of this route- it being an all-natural 5.14+ sport route on granite in California was one of the big reasons I was psyched to get the FA. It's location, the quality of the rock and the movement, the obviousness of the line and the sustained difficulty all coincided to make it one of the best hard routes I've ever done.”
The cold Eastern Sierra climate offers prime conditions for sending hard lines, and Ethan uses the winter weather to establish some hard as nails first ascents "Old Greg" V11/8a
On May 17th 2015, Ethan Pringle made history by becoming the second person to climb "Jumbo Love" 5.15b/9b at Clark Mountain in southern California. Hailed as the hardest rock climb in North America, and one of the hardest climbs in the world, next to La Dura Dura and Change (both rated 5.15c), this 250-foot limestone masterpiece was first climbed by Chris Sharma in 2008, and went unrepeated for another seven years until Pringle put it all together.
Invited by the Norwegian Climbing Federation, Ethan Pringle was invited to compete against Dani Andrada and Magnus Midtboe for a 'First Ascent' of a route that took place in Flatlanger, Norway, "The Eye of Odin" 5.14c / 8c+, inside a monster cave for a grand prize of 1,500 Norwegian Kroner.
"I kept telling the crowd that I was ‘so f*@ked,’ but I kept making it to the next rest, against my own predictions. I was soon at the last rest before the last boulder problem and somehow had recovered enough."
Although it was believed to be V15, Ethan Pringle thought it was more like V14. It only took 3 or 4 days to work out the moves and go for red point - which is shown in the video.
Watch Pringle climb the extension to Maroncita, a super pumpy 5.13d to a heinous 5.14c section that blocks the chains at the top.
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