ETHAN PRINGLE

Date of birth: May 30, 1986 (Age 29)

Location: San Francisco, California

Height: 5ft 10 in (1.78 m)

Weight: 150lb (68 kg)

Profession:  Rock Climbing 

Highest Boulering Grade: V15 (8c)

Highest Redpoint Grade:  5.15b/c (9b) Jumbo Love

Highest Onsight: 5.14a (8b+)

Competitions: Undefeated junior national and international champion from 1998-2001

Favorite Music: Indie Rock or Hio Hop

Status: Single

"THINK POSITIVE or at least be open to the possibility that you can and will do it.

Listen to what you're telling yourself when you're on the route, approaching the crux.

Are you telling yourself that you're going to fall?

Maybe that's the case because you have gotten into the habit of falling there.

Try telling yourself that you've got this! You know this and all you have to do is stay calm and execute.  And don't forget to breathe and try really fucking hard!”

ETHAN PRINGLE PODCAST

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“Projecting is hard work and can turn from being something new and challenging and exciting into a chore or a job you have to clock into after a while, especially when the progress slows or stops. Give yourself a big pat on the back for your progress and gaining new milestones on the climb and go easy on yourself on the days when it feels harder or links aren't happening and expectations aren't met. Maybe it's humid, or maybe the cosmos has it out for you? No worries!”  

ETHAN PRINGLE VIDEOS

Jumbo Love 9b/5.15b

The Hardest Rock Climb in the United States!

On May 17th 2015, Ethan Pringle made history by becoming the second person to climb Jumbo Love (5.15b) at Clark Mountain in southern California.   Hailed as the hardest rock climb in North America, and one of the hardest climbs in the world, next to La Dura Dura and Change (both rated 5.15c), this 250-foot limestone masterpiece was first climbed by Chris Sharma in 2008, and went unrepeated for another seven years until Pringle put it all together. 

“It’s just a hard, long, badass line!

It’s huge and exposed and pretty much as long as you can find.

You get to top out the wall!”   

 

HISTORY: Jumbo Love was bolted in the early 90's by the visionary Randy Leavitt.  It wasn't, however, until 2007, that Ethan Pringle and Chris Sharma began projecting the route with both making incredible progress.  Unfortunately, the following year Ethan fractured his heel falling from the top of Mandela - a V13 sit-down boulder problem in Bishop, California, and was unable to work on the route.  

 

Out of respect for their friendship, Sharma sent Pringle a text asking if he could take a shot at the route, and although Ethan really wanted a crack at the first ascent, he gave Sharma his blessing.  Saying later...

 

“Wanting to send a rock climb is never a good enough reason to tarnish a friendship." 

 

And the rest is history.  Seven years later, after Sharma's momumental ascent, Pringle claimed the second ascent.

The Eye of Odin 5.14c

Invited by the Norwegian Climbing Federation, Ethan Pringle was invited to compete against Dani Andrada and Magnus Midtboe for a 'First Ascent' of a route that took place in Flatlanger, Norway, inside a monsterout cave for a grand prize of 1,500 Norwegian Kroner.

 "I kept telling the crowd that I was ‘so f*@ked,’ but I kept making it to the next rest, against my own predictions.  I was soon at the last rest before the last boulder problem and somehow had recovered enough."

The Wheel of Life V14

Although it was believed to be V15, Ethan Pringle thought it was more like V14.  It only took 3 or 4 days to work out the moves and go for red point - which is shown in the video.  

Marconcita 5.14c

Watch Pringle climb the extension to Maroncita, a super pumpy 5.13d to a heinous 5.14c section that blocks the chains at the top.

Era Vella 5.14d

This phenomenal Margalef test-piece was put up by Chris Sharma in the winter of 2010. Located on one of Maglalef's steepest and tallest walls, Era Vella has become the most frequently repeated 9a in the world.  It features big moves between good, comfortable holds and no boulder problem harder than around font 7b+, but with no good rests or easy sections either...it's just a race to the top! 

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