MAYAN SMITH GOBAT
Date of birth: October 3, 1979 Christchurch, New Zealand
Height: 5ft 5 in
Profession: Rock Climber ( Traditional & Big Wall climbing)
About: Mayan Smith Gobat is a New Zealander climber best known for achievements in Yosemite Valley, where she became the second woman to free climb the Salathe Wall 5.13b/8a+ (1000m) and brought the female speed record on the Nose (1000m) down to 4.43 hours in 2014 with Libby Sauter, the First Female Ascent of Punks in the Gym 8b+/5.14a and the First Female linkup of The Nose and Half Dome in a day (2012)
"I love just being out there, on the rock, outside, moving over stone, and that’s what it really relates down to in the end. I love climbing, I want to know that I’m working at my utmost limit."
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MAYAN SMITH GOBAT VIDEOS
October 28, 2014 Mayan Smith Gobat along with Libby Sauter climbed the 3,000 foot route in 5 hrs 2 minutes, establishing a new womens's speed record on The Nose! The pair knocked off 37 minutes off the previous record of 5;39 which was also set by Gobat and Sauter in September 2013.
On February 6, 2016, the 25th anniversary of the first ascent, Mayan Smith Gobat and Ines Papert claimed the fifth free ascent of Riders in the Storm, a coveted prize on Torre Central in Torres del Paine National Park, via the east face, 25 years after the first free ascent of this historic unforgiving big wall in Patagonia. Wolfgang Gullich, Kurt Albert, Bernd Arnold, Peter Dittrich and Norbert Batz first established the route in 1991 at 5.12d A3.
In 2011, after a six day push, Mayan Smith Gobat became the second woman to free the Salathe Wall, after she completed the final pitches of the Salathe. The Salathe Wall 5.13b/8a is a classic route up El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. At 3500 ft and 35 pitches, it is one of the longest routes and known for its difficult off-width crack section.
"The strikingly steep, flaring crack on the crazily exposed headwall captured my imagination," she said. "It is beautiful and brutally unforgiving."
New Zealand climber Mayan Smith Gobat captured the First Female Ascent of Punks in the Gym 5.14a at Mt. Arapiles, Australia
"On previous trips, I did not really do anything to prepare, just scheduled enough time to train on the route. However, this time around, I decided to put other goals on hold and spent almost a month training specifically for Punks. I worked mainly on crimp strength and power, knowing that the endurance I need for this route would come easily. But then I went to Yosemite for 10 days to speed climb (the total opposite of what I need for this route), and then warmed up my fingers at Smith Rock for a week. I am not sure that this was the best idea for the last few weeks of training, but at least the crimps on Punks felt big after Smith Rocks!"
Mayan Smith Gobat talks about her training days in Siurana and her life in the climbing world.
Mayan Smith Gobat and Ben Rueck climb the iconic Totem Pole in Tasmania , Australia. A stunning sea stack in a wild and incredibly beautiful location.
On February 6th, Ines Papert and Mayan Smith-Gobat summited Torres Central, in Torres del Paine National Park (Chile) via the extremely difficult east face. 25 years after the first ascent of this historic route, this was only the fifth known successful ascent of ‘Riders on the Storm.’ This region is famous for its unstable weather conditions, making it a very challenging place to climb. This was first climbed by Wolfgang Gulich, Kurt Albert, Peter Dietrich, Norbert Batz. This on the sheer 1300m east face of Torres Central line went at 7c, A3. The climbing is very varied and demanding, ranging from delicate and runout face climbing to wide cracks and roofs, which were often entirely iced up. Video courtesy of Arcteryx.
Battling intense heat and the risk of dehydration, Mayan Smith Gobat and Ben Rueck climb the route "Place of Happiness" 5.12d 18 pitches on Brazil's highest Monolith called Pedra Riscada
" Fear surged through my veins. My muscles were tense as coiled springs ready to explode at the slightest touch, yet relaxing was vital. I desperately fought to slow my breathing and calm my mind. Tenuously clinging to the dead-vertical face, I felt like one of the many small succulents that covered the wall, obscuring the holds. I was 600 meters above the ground, with the last bolt out of sight at least 10 meters below my feet, and I was still unable see anything above. Scenarios flashed through my mind. We had just heard that a member of the only other party to repeat this route had broken his leg during a fall…
“Best not to think… Just concentrate and focus on the next move… You will be fine… One move at a time… Don’t think about anything else!” was the inner dialogue constantly running on repeat through my brain."
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