'The Swiss Machine'
Date of birth: October 4, 1976
Location: Langnau im Emmental, Switzerland
Date of Death: April 30th, 2017
Cause: Mountaineering Accident
Winner Eiger Award: 2008
Winner Piolet d'Or : 2009, 2014
Winner Karl Unterkircher Award: 2010
2004 Trilogy Eiger, Monch, Junfrau in 25 hours
2005 First solo ascent of Taboche East Face (6515m) and Cholatse north face (6440m)
2006 Matterhorn north face solo ascent, Eiger north face winter solo ascent of "Young Spider",
Gasherbrum II East (7772m) NE face, first ascent
2008 Eiger North Face Paciencia, first free ascent (900m 8a) w/ Stephen Siegrist. Hardest rock climbing route on Eiger North Face; Tengkampoche north face (6500m, Nepal) with Simon Anthamatten, first ascent in alpine style ( no blots, no fixed ropes, 4 days for ascent & descent ), winner of Piolet d'Or Award
2009 Matterhorn north face, Schmid route speed record in 1.56 hrs, solo, Gasherbrum II solo ascent
2011 Shishapangma south face solo in 10:30 hrs
2012 Everest, via South Col - south east ridge without supplemental oxygen
2013 Annapurna, solo ascent via the south face in 28 hrs, winner of Piolet d'Or Award
2015 Eiger North Face, Heckmair route, speed record in 2:22:50 hours, solo
" It's hard to explain how much risk I take, because I'm the only person who's in the moment, and who's making the decision. It's just takes one second to make the wrong decision. This can happen to the best. Going to the mountains is not something you read in the book. You have to be out there.".
UELI STECK PODCAST
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UELI STECK VIDEOS
Steck's Everest-Lhotse Project
"I think you have to be really rational doing all this soloing.
You can't have any emotions during a climb."
Steck's 2015 Eiger Speed Record
In 2014, Ueli Steck won his second Piolet d'Or award for free soloing Annapurna. Then in 2015, Ueli solidified his name in the history books by establishing a new record for soloing the North Face of the Eiger in 2 hours, 22 minutes and 50 seconds. Listen as Ueli Steck shares his thoughts on fear, the dangers of his sport, base jumping, the death of Dean Potter, and how he maintains his motivation and focus.
In one of the boldest Himalayan climbs in history, Mountain Hardwear athlete Ueli Steck completed in 2013 the first solo ascent of Annapurna's South Face in a record 28 hours.
Steck Interview: Free Soloing & The Annapurna Speed Record
' It's important to do what you want to do, what you enjoy, and then success is guaranteed. "
Steck Training for Everest Without Oxygen
On May 18, 2012, Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck (aka the ‘Swiss Machine’) became the first westerner in many years to summit Mt. Everest from the south side without the use of supplementary oxygen. Climbing an 8000-meter peak without oxygen is exponentially more difficult and Ueli pulls no punches when he tells us how he feels about the difficulty of climbing Everest, how he thinks using oxygen is cheating, and how he thinks speed records on Everest are “bullshit”.
Steck: 82 Summits in 62 Days
Ueli Steck has been climbing for over 20 years and in that time he has become one of the most renowned and respected athletes of his generation. In an age of fast and light alpinism, Ueli Steck has driven the sport to new heights with revolutionary ascents all over the world.
In 2015, after several years of pushing the limits of his sport in the high ranges of the Himalayas, Ueli decided to return to the Alps to attempt a very different take on a classic alpine challenge; climb all 82 summits of 4,000 metres or above in the European Alps in less than 80 days, and to top it all off, to complete the challenge using only human power from start to finish.
Watch Pringle climb the extension to Maroncita, a super pumpy 5.13d to a heinous 5.14c section that blocks the chains at the top.
Ueli Steck: a New Vision
Speed alpinist Ueli Steck imagines climbing multiple peaks in the Swiss Alps in a day, using a paraglider to get from the summit of one to the base of the next.