Date of birth: April 23, 1981 (Age 34)
Location: Santa Cruz, California
Residence: Barcelona, Spain
Height: 6ft 0 in (1.83 m)
Weight: 165lb (75 kg)
Profession: Rock Climbing
Highest Boulering Grade: V15 (8c)
Highest Redpoint Grade: 5.15c (9b+)
Highest Onsight: 5.14b (8c)
Favorite Music: Reggae
“Climbing is how I focus my energy, it’s what gives me a sense of purpose.
Climbing is this long term, lifelong journey.
It’s really important to just take your time with it and keep it fun.
I’ve seen a lot of people burn out because it starts becoming this job for them.
It stops being fun.
For me, it’s been really important to keep it enjoyable. Listen to your motivation."
20 YEARS AGO, Chris Sharma made history by capturing the first ascent of Necessary Evil 5.14c (8c+) in the Virgin River Gorge, Utah, the highest-rated climb in North America at the time, at the age of 15. Some thought it was a fluke, but as Chris quickly proved, he was just getting started. Over the next couple of decades, Sharma established the world's first 5.15a with Realization in Céüse, France (see video below), the first 5.15b with his ascent of Jumbo Love at Clark Mountain, California, and the first 5.15c La Dura Dura in Oliana, Spain (shown above), capturing the 2nd ascent after Adam Ondra on March 27th 2013.
Chris's list of ascents have not been restricted to rediculously hard sport climbing routes. Chris has also established a number of V15 boulder problems, including Witness the Fitness (video below) in the Ozark Mountains of Arkansas, and Catalan Witness the Fitness, a tunnel-like, horizontal roof problem at Cova de l’Ocell, north of Barcelona, on January 4th, 2016.
In addition, Chris is known to popularize other genres of the sport, including 'psicobloc' (a.k.a. deep-water-soloing or DWS) For those unfamiliar with the sport, psicobloc involves free soloing sea cliffs off the coast of Mallorca, Spain, with nothing but the Mediterranean Ocean beneath you. Chris' signature route is Es Pontas 5.15a, a magnificent 65' arch that was established on September 26th, 2006.
Born and raised in Santa Cruz, California, Chris now lives in Barcelona, Spain with his wife, Jimena Alarcon, a Venezuelan model/actress, who is pregnant and expecting a baby girl. Together, they opened a 'Sharma' climbing gym in the heart of Barcelona. To learn more, please listen to our exclusive PodCast interview with Chris, as he shares his thoughts on the state of climbing, his new gym, how he trains for the world's hardest climbs, his spirituality, and the secrets to his success and happiness.
CHRIS SHARMA PODCAST
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CHRIS SHARMA VIDEOS
Joe Mama 9a+
Last week I managed to send Joe Mama 9a+ at Oliana, a route that had challenged me a lot last season. It's been quite a year with so many new experiences. As we enter into Fall and the climbing season it feels so good to be back in the groove and finding my flow on the rock! More to come very soon!
Le Blond Project
My buddy Jason Momoa and his family came over for dinner the other night and we were checking out some of the footage we've been shooting this year; in particular this amazing futuristic project called Le Blond located in Peramola Catalunya. Seeing it gets me super psyched to train hard and get back out here as soon as the weather gets good! tZaaaah!
“When I was working on La Dura Dura, I kept looking over to my right and saw this line of holds.
One day I finally decided to bolt it. That day happened to be the same day that Patrick Edlinger passed away.
I named the route in his honor. So I called it Le Blond.”
Sharma & Becam: Mont Rebei Ep. 3
I had an amazing spring season back on my multi pitch project in Mont Rebei with my good friend Kleman Becan. This is one of the most impressive lines I've ever put up and its gonna be amazing when it finally goes!
“The definition of a king line is something that’s barely possible, but it’s so beautiful, you just want to climb it.
For me, combining these high-level sports with perfecting the control of your body and mixing that with these super beautiful,
natural features like that arch – it’s just perfection.”
La Dura Dura 9b+/5.15c
Although Chris Sharma bolted the route, it was Adam Ondra who made the first ascent. Instead of feeling defeated, Chris became even more motivated, espcially after establishing the first ascent of Stoking the Fire in Santa Linya, saying it "freed" him for La Dura Dura. And on March 27 2013, just one month after Adam's historical ascent, Chris became the second person to climb 9b+ (5.15c). This is what Chris had to say...
"Getting Adam's perspective was really important.
I'd practically written the route off, and when we decided to work it together, he brought it back to life. It was a healthy process for both of us, we fed off each other's motivation, and through him I think I became a better climber myself."
Dream Catcher 5.14d
After bolting the route with Sonnie Trotter in 2005, Sharma returned that September to send the route for the first ascent, rating 5.14c or 14d. Dreamcatcher went unrepeated for four years until Sean McColl sent the route for the second ascent and confirmed the grade at 5.14d.
Witness the Fitness V15
Chris Sharma established the first ascent of this amazing forty foot roof problem in the Ozark Mountains of Arkansas, USA, in 2005. As you will see, this incredible line requires some of the wildest moves you've ever seen.
In July, 2001, Chris Sharma made the first ascent of Realization (AKA Biographie), the world's first confirmed 5.15 (9a+), in Ceuse, France.
3 Degrees of Separation 5.15a
Chris Sharma's first ascent of 3 Degrees of Separation in Ceuse, France went unrepeated for 8 years until Adam Ondra made the second ascent in 2015. Afterwards, Ondra went onto say it was the hardest climb in Ceuse.
First Round First Minute 5.15b
Chris Sharma made the first ascent of First Round First Minute, in Margalef, Spain on April 19, 2011. This twenty five move route features a V10 boulder problem (the crux) at the very top!