WHEN IT COMES to predicting the most likely candidates for the 202 Olympics, this World Cup Bouldering comp provided a pretty good glimpse.  Once again. Adam Ondra didn't disappoint.  He topped all 4 final routes with a spectacular flash on the last that had shut everyone else down.  All because of a simple hand crack.  Imagine that.   

“I sort of feel sorry for the guys because of the crack.  It was making those guys look like beginners because crack climbing techniques are not very complicated.  You just have to try.  Most of those guys have never-ever hand jammed." 


Adam Ondra

NOT SURPRISINGLY the World Cup Bouldering comp for the Women's 2019 Final was just as insane.  The level these female athletes are climbing is mind-boggling.  Men maybe climbing a bit harder but not by a lot.  Most would agree,   the gap is quickly narrowing.  I'm not sure which is more exciting to watch.  The men or the woman, but it sure appears the women are doing more dynamic moves.   For the scorecard and additional world cup bouldering final videos, go to World Cup Bouldering

“I was a bit frustrated. (after splitting her finger after the first problem)  Then I said, I should just enjoy the final and do my best.  It turned out amazing!"   


Janja Garnbret


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Janja Garnbret wins 4th consecutive World Cup Bouldering title, flashing problems with the consistency of Adam Ondra, who is arguably the best climber on the planet.  So, that's saying a lot about Garnbret and her future.  If she can repeat her performances in lead and speed, she will be the woman to beat in the 2020 Summer Olympics.  

The person we should be watching, other than Miho Nonaka, who's beaten Garbret in past seasons, and Akiyo Noguchi, who has podium every year since 2008, is a 15-year-old Japanese girl, Ai Mori.   She came in 3rd, nudging out Nonaka, right behind Noguchi, who came in 2nd.  

It's difficult to say which genre (male or female) is more exciting to watch when climbing has evolved into a new form of gymnastics that requires super human strength and insane flexibility.  Given a choice, I would prefer the Women, and I'm willing to bet the ratings will say the same.  Unless, of course, Adam Ondra is taking the stage.  Then, the entire climbing world is holding its breath.  

Moscow 2019


Janja Garnbret wins 2nd title in as many weeks, establishing herself as the woman to beat and a contender for the 2020 Olympics, should she repeat her performances in speed and lead.   While in the men's bouldering final, it was anyone's guess who would win until the last problem with the last person: Adam Ondra

Jernej Kruder crushed it.  Now it was Ondra's turn.  If he could do it in three attempts or less, he would be the winner.  If gambling was allowed, the odds would be stacked in Ondra's favor.  But to everyone's surprise, including Ondra, he slipped at the start.   And that seemed to set the tone for the remaining four minutes.  In the end, Ondra timed out, but he still secured second.  If this competition was any indication, we're in for a treat.   It's anyone's guess who will take gold.   

2019 Moscow World Cup Bouldering Final Results

Meiringen 2019 Finals





  1. Adam Ondra (CZE)

  2. Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)

  3. Rei Sugimoto (JPN)

  4. Kokoro Fujii (JPN)

  5. Jongwon Chon (KOR)

  6. Tomoaki Takata (JPN)


  1. Janja Garnbret (SLO)

  2. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)

  3. Shauna Coxsey (GBR)

  4. Fanny Gibert (FRA)

  5. Petra Klingler (SUI)

  6. Oceana Mackenzie (AUS)

Adam Ondra & Janja Garnbret stole the show with their dominating performances.   Everyone knows how difficult it is to send on the first go.   You have to download a terabyte of information and make a decision in a split second..."Should I go up with right and cross over with my left?   Or should I do it in reverse and bump instead?" How you read the route is an art form that can be perfected with years of practice and a gift that few of us have.   At least at that level.   

Japan 2019 Finals

China 2018 Finals

Tai'an, China 2018 Finals

Adidas RockStars 2018 Finals